April 16th - 30th 2005
Written by Geoff Forster
Another lovely day, the sky is blue, a slight breeze is cooling the air but it is another perfect day for walking. This area of Andalucía in Spring and Autumn is a hikers dream. The scenery is breathtaking and the climate often perfect.
We're going to take the dogs out along the bottom path. We'll either end up at John and Chris's to feed the sheep, or carry on down to the Rio following the track Cristóbal showed us on Wednesday evening.
We decided to call in on Dolly and Molly, although the hill is steep it's not as long as the circular river walk.
The sheep are fit and well, they always come and look at us from a distance.
It was quite windy which made sunbathing difficult, which was a pity because it was a sunny day.
This is a picture of the Genal Valley just above the river below Algatocín.

This is the pueblo of Jubrique, the sweet chestnuts which cover large parts of the hillsides of the Genal Valley are just coming into leaf, so the valley is looking even greener than usual.

Jane tried to get the dogs to pose for a photograph.

This is an incredibly difficult thing to do!
This is as good as it gets.

Another fantastic day. Blue skies and the wind has dropped today.
I was up early and saw the sunrise above Jubrique across the valley.
There was a bird of prey hovering above the rocks behind the house. It was getting hassled by a smaller bird that made four or five 'attacks' before moving away. The bigger bird seemed unphased and after a few seconds carried on hunting. I watched through binoculars trying to identify the species.
I think it is a Common Buzzard, it hovers very well and often sits on poles and wires.
It's the FA Cup Semi Final this afternoon, this is make or break for our season. We'll see how deep they can dig today after Thursdays fiasco.
With our best attacking midfielder's suspended, our forwards injured, our French winger/dead ball specialist dropped for dissent (will he apologise?), our defence is rubbish at the best of times. It's down to Shearer at one end and Shay Given at the other.
Prediction 1-0 to the Toon!
Later ... well I got it half right .... we did score one.
Stupid game anyway ...
Earlier in the day we'd been to the restaurant Kábilas and sat on the wonderful sun terrace there. We were checking the valley for birds and admiring the views when we got chatting to an English couple who had just finished a meal there. Colin and Jenny from Northamptonshire, who are in the village for ten days searching for the 'Real Spain' and unwinding. They invited us to their table for a drink and we arranged to meet later in the evening.
We've just got back from a enjoyable evening in the village bars. They are a lovely couple, we're arranged to meet them on Tuesday evening for a meal. They love Benarrabá, it is really very Spanish still and the views of the mountains and valleys are incredible. A good evening after a terrible afternoon.
It's a little overcast today, with possibilities of a few sunny intervals.
We've been to the pandería (bread shop) which now sells cakes. So we had a cake each for breakfast.
We're Spring cleaning the downstairs apartment today.
We worked all morning doing really boring cleaning things which we both hate. It is starting to look better. We have little cupboard space downstairs which is a problema.
Dami called a round which was a surprise. He wanted me to check on the internet for quad bike parts. We searched for half an hour then gave up.
The sky is greyer now and there is a fine misty rain falling.
We went to see Onno and Marion who were just going out as we arrived. We got our DVD's back and watched Lord of The Rings part 1. The Fellowship of the Ring.
Later in the evening we watched Morse on TV.
The clouds have gone and we're back to blue skies and sunshine.
We have no plans for the morning or afternoon yet. It's a shame to be inside on a lovely day (no more cleaning please).
Jane's been to the Post Office to collect a parcel. (Thank you Carol and Michael)
The Post Office opens for half an hour 9:15 to 9:45!
We decided to do the long walk we'd been shown by Cristóbal last Wednesday evening. You set off on the signposted Algatocín walk but instead of heading up over the ridge, you stay on the bottom path. This path takes you right around the valley to the North of Benarrabá until it drops down to the river above Raphael's molina.

Over the last week this White flower has started to appear everywhere.
The flower is identical to a Rock Rose but a lot larger.

We walked for around an hour and reached two pairs of iron gates we passed through the set on the right. Closing them behind us. There are a lot of sheep and pigs on this land.

With the dogs on their leads we passed through two groups of pigs.
They were feeding on the road. We met José Barroso from the Bar in Benarrabá in his van . They are his pigs and although they are free to feed in the forest they get fed a supplement everyday.
The trail twisted and turned down to the river, it had taken us an hour and forty minutes to get there. It was an easy walk mainly flat or downhill.
Here's our water loving Border Collie Sally cooling off in the pure waters of the Rio Genal.

We sat and had our picnic lunch, the dogs played.
We walked and explored the banks of the Genal. There is a tributary that comes from Genalguacil and joins the Genal at this point. There is a small island of stones between the two rivers. The photograph below was taken from on this island.

There was a bird of prey hunting on the hillside above us.



We watched it for ten minutes. Even with fairly good photographs it is hard to identify the species. We think it is a female Bonelli's Eagle.
After over an hour by the river we headed back up to Benarrabá. As we looked back into the valley we noticed a group of Swifts. These are the first Swifts we have seen this year. They seem to migrate a lot later than the Swallows and House Martins.
We knew there was a track up the hillside that came out near the Collegio in Benarrabá. We followed a sign and then white arrows up a steep, narrow hillside track.

We were climbing through lots of Broom, Gorse, Rock Rose and Cork Oak trees it was hot and quite a hard climb.
We reached the top and headed home to cool down.
We went to the Resataurante Kábilas for a meal with Colin and Jenny. It was a great evening, the food and wine were excellent. We ended up in Bar Andrés Sánchez for a coffee.
It's a beautiful day outside. Jane's been to the Bank and Pandería.
We may go out to Ronda. We haven't been for a while and it's our favourite town. A few hours wandering about the plazas and bird watching in the gorge, fantastic!
We were just leaving the village when we saw Colin and Jenny in their car. We pulled over and asked them where they were going. "Ronda" they said. So because we knew the way and where to park they followed us. We went down the A369 to Ronda, then through the old town, across the bridge and we parked at the west end of town.
This is the view looking North towards Grazalema.

Near where we park the car. For some time there had been some workmen constructing what turned out to be a statue of the Virgin del Paz.

We walked down into town and went for a beer and tapas in the Hotel Macias in Calle Pedro Romero. This is our favourite bar in Ronda. It is a very traditional Spanish bar with marvelous antique tiles, high ceilings, arches and pillars with jamon's, chorizo, garlic etc hanging from hooks. Tapas is included in the price of the drink (1.50€ per beer).
Next we took Colin and Jenny up the main shopping street before the shops closed at 2pm, they wanted to buy sun hats. They both got very nice hats and we headed to the bridge over the gorge to enjoy the amazing view. We then walked up to the Palace de Mondragon this is a walk up cobbled streets with very traditional large Spanish townhouses. There is a lovely tree lined mirador where a guitarist was playing. We had a beer at a street Café under a palm tree the sun was lovely. We had a look in a few tourist/antique shops and walked back across the bridge. We headed down a side street, we spotted Alvaro the salesman from Renault who had sold us our first Clio. We went in the bar and had a beer with him. We then went to a small walled garden on the top of the gorge with a good vantage point back to the famous bridge over the gorge. Jenny kindly took this photograph of us.

We then went for a pizza in the best Italian restaurant in Ronda if not the world Da Vinci's.
I'm putting a map here showing where Da Vinci's is. Please mention Geoff and Jane from Benarrabá when you eat the best pizza in the world here ... we may get a free one!

We walked to the bullring. Jane and I have had glimpses inside as we passed and doors were opened, also we've seen it on TV but have never paid the 5€ to go in. It is a very special place to Spanish bullfighting fans. The oldest ring in Spain and where the form of bullfighting on foot used today was developed by Pedro Romero.

The ring was smaller than I'd expected. The pillars and chestnut beamed ceilings were wonderful. The seating was basic just polished planks on top concrete steps. (perhaps you take or are given cushions?) It was a lot plainer than I'd imagined. Perhaps the most surprising thing was the size and construction of the behind the scenes facilities. The bull pens, horse stables, practice areas and schooling house for the horses. A bullring web page is needed on the Ronda pages! This beautiful horse was one of around a dozen stabled in the bullring.

Here's one of me.

Here's one of Colin and Jenny.

We went around the museum which had a lot of the 'suits of light' worn by famous matadors. It was all very interesting.
We left the bullring and headed back to the cars. We then had to go to a couple of supermarkets. Colin and I had a beer in the Plus supermarket while Jane and Jenny shopped, this is a great idea. Spain is a fantastic place!
We drove home and arranged to meet Colin and Jenny again tomorrow evening. We were both tired, a couple of cups of tea revived us and we ended up watching an old Arnold Schwarzenegger film 'Raw Deal'. We both thought that we'd seen it before but couldn't remember it. He blew everything up and killed everybody ... now we remember ...
We're off to the coast at San Luis de Sabinillas, our favourite beach.
We're going to walk along the beach and paddle in the Med.
Then we're driving to Carrefour's at Los Barrios to buy some large plastic storage containers.
Well the day went exactly as planned.
We set off down the Casares/Manilva road through Gaucín. we stopped off to buy goats cheese at the Crestillina farm shop.
We were just getting in the car when a chicken ran across the road.
I grabbed for my camera but it was in the case switched off.
Sensing that I'd missed a great photograph and the opportunity for some really bad jokes on the blog. I took a chance that it might decide to cross back. So I crept up on it and had the camera ready. I think it got a shock because it ran back across as fast as it's drumsticks could carry it, making quite a noise into the bargain.
Here's the photo .. this really is fast food.

Now in slow motion zoom mode ...

Anyone wishing to e-mail us with their worst/best chicken crossing the road jokes feel free.
Chicken Jokes
We were soon parked in San Luis de Sabinillas near the beach.
We had a lovely walk up the beach towards the Marina at Duquesa.
The sand was almost too hot to walk on, the sea almost too cold to paddle in!
Here's Jane in a blue sea under a blue sky.
You are just one cheap flight away from heaven!

We had a picnic on the beach, sun bathed for a while and then went to Los Barrios. We bought our plastic storage boxes and some groceries in Carrefour's.
We drove home it was 31C/88F on a temperature guide that we passed.
We had the car windows down and the latest Spanish rap on the CD ... It was wonderful driving through the countryside up into the mountains. Lot's of poppies are appearing plus a really pretty pink convolvulus.
Soon the purple sweet peas will be everywhere ... Spring in Andalucía is unbeatable.
We went to meet Colin and Jenny at the Restaurante Kábilas. A few Rioja's and a good laugh.
Up early, there's a little high cloud but hopefully it will go.
Our latest guests leave today. It's been another week of good weather.
We're planning on a drive out possibly to Grazalema National Parque with Colin and Jenny.
Guests Val, John and family had a great time and kindly left us a barbeque for the apartment which was kind.
Jane drove us across the Guadiaro valley to Cortes de la Frontera then down to Montejaque where we turned off and headed to Grazalema.
The day got hotter and hotter as the cloud was burnt off.
Here's a view of Grazalema from across the valley.

We sat outside a bar and had a beer, then a short walk around the plaza area. Colin found the fountain.

We were soon back in the same bar eating a self service tapas, washed down by a glass of Rioja. Excellent food and wine. We headed out of Grazalema towards Ubrique. We stopped at this mirador. The view was stunning.

We took the Cortes road out of Ubrique hoping to see some vultures. They weren't in their usual spot.
We turned into the Alcornocales National Parque and Jane drove us expertly along the twisty forest road.
We had a Coke and Ice Cream in El Colmenar and headed up towards Gaucín. Just before Gaucín we saw around ten vultures circling an outcrop. There were also two Booted Eagles flying around the crag.
Jenny got her first glimpse of the African mountains as the view down to the coast was excellent.
Back in Benarrabá we dropped off Colin and Jenny and went home for a cup of tea. Jane had driven a long way, but we'd all had a great day out.
Tonight Luis and Simon, Benarrabá's famous Flamenco artists are playing in the Restaurante Kábilas. We're both tired but it should be a good night.
Jane walked Kyra, Onno and Marion's Alsatian/Husky cross, they are away for the weekend. She then went to the Pandería for a loaf of the fantastic bread they make here.
I let our dogs up the track and then we made a start cleaning the apartment.
It was a beautiful day so we sat on the sun terrace and enjoyed the day.
Colin and Jenny came for dinner. We had jamon, chorizo with some of Carmen's special oregano olives for starters. I cooked a Murghi chicken curry for the main course. We had a fresh fruit cocktail for desert, followed by an assortment of cheeses and coffee. We managed to drink a few bottles of Reserva Rioja with the meal.
We then watched Snatch with Brad Pitt.
A good evening.
It's Jane's Birthday - Feliz Cumpleaños pet!
It's also our first wedding anniversary.
Here's a link to photographs of the happy day.

Wedding Photographs
We're having a quiet day currently lazing in the 90F heat on the sun terrace. Lots of phone calls from family and friends which is great.
We're having a roast chicken dinner later, as this is Jane's favourite.
We walked to the Restaurante Kábilas to see Colin and Jenny. We had a Champagne sandwich ... Rioja - Champagne - Rioja!
Then we had a swim in the pool.
It wasn't very warm but you got used to it after a while.
Jane is having an early night!
Another hot day, the sun is shining in a perfectly clear blue sky. We're going to the beach at San Luis de Sabinillas. Colin and Jenny haven't been to the beach yet and you can't come to the Costa del Sol and leave without paddling in the Med.
We'll probably have a drive along the coast as well.
A good day out!
We drove out through Gaucín past Casares and to the outskirts of Estepona. We then went along the coast road to the Marina at Duquesa. A walk around the marina and we hopped back in the car and drove a couple of hundred metres to San Luis de Sabinillas.
Here's Jane and Jenny paddling in the Med.

We walked down the beach, it was very hot.
Coffee, cakes and tostada in a street Café went down well.
(Jobs a good'un ... Thank your mother for the rabbit!)
(Don't Ask - It's what they say in Northamptonshire!)
We had a quick stroll around Sabinillas, we love the beach it's long, clean and quiet, parking is no problema but its a bit lacking in shops.
We hopped back in the car and headed back to Gaucín.
We had a few drinks in Manolo's, tapas near the fountain.


We met Glynnis and Reg sitting outside the Café with their Basset Hound Edward, they are winter migrants from Skipton, very nice people.
Next we headed back to Benarrabá and sat outside Pepa's Bar.
We dropped Colin and Jenny off and went home to see the dogs and cats.
I was watering the plants when Cristóbal called be up to his stable to show me his new rabbits. The horse is out in the campo for the summer so the stable is now used for breeding bunnies.
Jane's having a siesta after all the driving, we may watch a film later.
A trip to Gibraltar is on the cards tomorrow with Colin and Jenny. The forecast is for clear skies so it should be a good day for going up the rock.
Up early off to Gibraltar with Colin and Jenny.
We drove past the White Storks nesting near Estación de San Roque.

We arrived in La Linea at around 10:30 and walked across into Gibraltar.
Colin had been wanting a full English breakfast and knew a pub from his last visit seven years ago. It's name had something to do with ships ... we found "The Royal Oak" one of the few non nautically named pubs in Gibraltar ... but then Colin noticed "The Clipper" opposite and we were soon sitting with sausage, bacon, eggs, baked beans, tomatoes and chips. Plus toast and a mug of tea. Our first English breakfast for over a year!
We then split up, Colin and Jenny went on a tour of the rock whilst Jane and I went to M&S to buy sandals (without luck). Then we walked to the Botanical Gardens which is a lovely tranquil place on this busy Rock.

This Bougainvillea was very spectacular. Jane's favourite plant.
Very beautiful.
A little further and this Navy ship was in the Dockyard.
This is the 5,000th photograph I've taken with this camera in a year!
Jane's not happy .... but it's only a number pet!

We decided to walk around the south of Gibraltar. There was a large dockyard - Cammel Laird.
We quickly passed this horrendous pub!
(This one is for our good friend Carol - see you soon!)
After recent results I wasn't going in here!

We saw this unusual cat sitting in a window.

We walked passed a few historic naval areas.
Through a tunnel and found a lovely bay.
This is Jane with the African coastline in the background.

A really unexpected feature was this waterfall coming out of the cliff face. There was quite a cascade and shows how much water must be naturally stored in the Rock.

We walked through a really long tunnel and found ourselves outside a lovely mosque. There was a good viewing point to Africa and the last shop in Europe. There was also a large number of white Toyota jeeps held in a compound ...

We carried on walking to see if we could lap Gibraltar but turned back near the waste disposal incinerator.
We caught the number three bus back into the main shopping area and rejoined Colin and Jenny at the Lord Nelson for a cider or two.
We then walked across the airport and out into Spain. It was quite busy at the customs post but it still only took minutes.
We'd all had a good day.
We stopped off in San Pablo de Buceite to buy some plants from the nursery.
We then headed back to Benarrabá and the Restaurante Kábilas for a few beers, as the sun bathed us in its beautiful warm rays for an hour or so.
We're home now with the dogs and cats. We're thinking about cooking a meal and winding down in front of the TV.
A lovely e-mail tonight from Martin and Sue who enjoy the website and blog. They have a holiday home in El Colmenar, we were in El Colmenar last Friday. It is a very special area in Springtime. We both enjoy the forest and the drive up to Gaucín, the diversity of the flowers growing in the roadside verges is increasing daily, it's fantastic!
A fairly cloudy day. We went to Algatocín market. Nothing much there.
We bought vegetables in the Super Valle de Genal Supermarket, we're going to make the first Gazpacho of the year.
I planted up some pots with the flowers we bought yesterday. They look good on the windowsill.
Some bad news, Juan's four turkeys were killed by a fox last night. The young goat who followed them everywhere is pretty upset. Whether the kid was chased as well we're not sure but it has a cut on its nose.
We're off out to the Restaurante Kábilas for a meal. It's Colin and Jenny's last night and they've invited us to join them.
Well we're back! A great last night.
I'm pleased to say that tonight I was witness to Jenny beating the Kettering all comers record for Paella consumption in one sitting. This petite lady had at least three platefuls plus Colin's prawns, the platter was sent back to the kitchens completely empty. I think the kitchen was both pleased and impressed. We then found out the very filling paella is on the starters menu!
We had to order a main course, so we had the Roast Beef in carrot sauce, which is really good.
Colin and I had the Benalauría Castañas (Chestnuts) in Brandy a local delicacy, Jane had cheesecake and Jenny had Whisky Ice Cream.
Jane and I had a couple of bottles of Rioja and Colin and Jenny drank a nice 2002 white.
We had a coffee then slowly walked through the pueblo back to our house.
We said a sad farewell to them and wished them a good journey home.
We hope to see them again very soon!
I got home to a couple of e-mails about the website, they are always welcome and encouraging. Thanks to Caroline and to Colin the Bird watcher.
The sun is shining its already hot outside. I walked the dogs up the track at the side if the house. Juan's goat bleated at me, it seems a little less stressed today. A group of about twenty Bee Eaters flew north across the valley, the resident Great Spotted Woodpecker was hammering away in a tree nearby. It's a good start to the day.
We've been working on our tans, its been a beautiful day.
I finally finished the house hunting experiences page for the website.
House hunting experiences
I have a number of new pages which I want to finish over the next few days.
I think we'll have a quiet night in watching films.
We're up early before dawn. A plumber is coming this morning. We have a large reserve tank and this needs a couple of valves putting in to work properly.
It looks like it's going to be another hot day, the sky looks clear.
The Sweet Chestnut trees in the valley are getting their new leaves and the hillsides look really green. We haven't had any rain for ages. A few overnight showers would be good for the flowers.
I've just finished the Castillo de Castellar web page we visited this beautiful place in early April.
Castillo de Castellar
We went for a walk through the plaza, it was a lovely sunny evening. We called into Bar El Porón (Pepa's) and a few (all the men) of our neighbours were there. We had a good time. We were talking about Juan's goat and the turkey incident when Pepa said she was going to feed hers so she disappeared from behind the bar and asked Jane to go with her.
Here are a few photographs which Jane took of her trip with Pepa.
Pepa has around fifteen goats.

This one has just had a baby. The milk for the first two days is very special, it is drunk after heating with a stick cinnamon and sugar.
It has small cheesy lumps floating in it. It is a delicacy and tastes really good.

The young kid doesn't want to miss out.

Pepa's two beautiful horses.

Jane and Pepa eventually returned, a lot of customers had been waiting quite a while for drinks, others (us) had just topped themselves up. Pepa's husband Pepe arrived back from the coast (Estepona) where he works as a mechanic returning to Benarrabá only on weekends.
We had a few more drinks with our neighbours and friends before
walking home through the town.
Never Again! I'm suffering again. A few cups of tea, Ibuprofen 600mg, a tostada with olive oil and fresh tomato and I'll be alright!
We have to go to Ronda to buy communion presents for two of our neighbours children. Marta, Juan's daughter and Tamara, Belén's daughter who now lives in San Pedro weekdays. We've been invited by both families.
We bought a gold crucifix and chain for Marta and a watch for Tamara.
We had a drink and tapas in the Hotel Macias.
We also got some photocopies of our Apartment advertising sheet.
Anyone who can put one of these up on a notice board at work or in a club, shop window etc can either print one out themselves by clicking on this link.
Apartment flyer
Then click on File - Print Preview - Shrink to fit - Portrait - Print.
If you can't print one out, we can send you some through the post.
Please e-mail us with your address, thank you.
Thanks to everyone who has already done this for us your help is much appreciated.
We got home I listened to the football, an uninspired 0-0 at home against a poor Crystal Palace team.
We cooked a steak casserole with fresh vegetables which was excellent.
A very early night.